Hamburgers have been around since the late 19th century and are one of America’s most commonly eaten foods. From In-N-Out’s iconic double-double to Wendy’s famous square patties — because they don’t cut corners — the burger now comes in all shapes and sizes, evolving beyond its humble beginnings of just beef and bread. However, before there were all of these crazy innovations, there was one man, one boy, one big boy, who would change the hamburger game forever.
Before there were Whoppers, Jr. Bacon Cheeseburgers and Santa Barbara Chars, there was one burger to rule them all: Bob’s Big Boy.
Our story begins back in 1933 when Big Boy founder Bob Wian was voted “least likely to succeed” during his senior year at Glendale High School. This title would seemingly stick as Wian found employment as a dishwasher at the now-defunct “White Castle” style chain restaurant, White Log Coffee Shop, after graduating. This was his first taste of working in the food industry and he was immediately enticed by not only how restaurants worked, but how they could be improved. Wian’s hard work and dedication allowed him to make the jump from dishwasher to fry cook where he learned the recipe for White Log’s signature pancake batter.
Not long after, Wian eventually got promoted from fry cook to manager. As a manager, Wian learned all about how White Log operated. It was here he discovered how to price food, sell merchandise and ensure quality by using an offsite commissary kitchen. After learning the tricks of the trade, Wian stepped down as manager of White Log so he could gain more experience working at other restaurants.
Wian’s next stop on his food journey was 15 minutes west on the 134 to the Pasadena establishment, Rite Spot. Two important events occurred while employed here. The first was meeting the future vice president of Bob’s Big Boy, Leonard Dunagan. The second was learning to make the coveted cheeseburger. For readers who are unaware, Rite Spot holds claim to be the restaurant where the first cheeseburger was made way back in 1924. According to legend, one day while flipping burgers at his father’s restaurant, Lionel Clark Sternberger accidentally burned one side of a patty and decided to hide his mistake the way most people do, by covering it with cheese. Whether this is actually the case, we will never know, but regardless of whatever the truth may be, Rite Spot and Sternberger are credited as the pioneers of this signature sandwich.
(Fun fact: The Pasadena Chamber of Commerce created “Pasadena Cheeseburger Week” in 2012 where restaurants across Pasadena come together to celebrate this ingenious invention. They also erected a plaque in 2017, commemorating the original Rite Spot location on 1500 W Colorado Blvd, Pasadena, CA 91105).
Anyway, back to Bob’s. On top of learning how to make hamburgers, Wian also learned how to make the burger toppings of chili and red relish: a simple mixture of ketchup and pickle relish. Although Rite Spot did offer curbside service — a major component Wian would eventually bring to his own restaurant — Wian’s first experience with this was at Pig Stand, the first drive-in restaurant in America. Wian’s last stop on his road to opening his own business was at C.C. Brown’s Ice Cream Parlor. The establishment’s Hollywood location made it a popular stomping ground for the likes of Elvis, Marilyn Monroe and Marlon Brando — I guess the Godfather’s favorite food really is a dish best-served cold. More impressive than the celebrity clientele, however, is the fact that Brown’s is recognized as the originator of the hot fudge sundae.
After saving up paychecks from his years of work, selling his beloved DeSoto Roadster for $300 and borrowing $50 from his dad for supplies, Wian opened Bob’s Pantry in Glendale in 1936, making Bob’s the oldest continuously operating hamburger restaurant in California. This 10-stool diner featured items from Wian’s previous jobs. White Log’s pancakes, Rite Spot’s burgers and C.C. Brown’s hot fudge sundae all made an appearance, but the dish that made Bob’s famous was actually one of Wian’s own inventions. In one version of the story, a group of band kids from Glendale High School went to Bob’s Pantry one night in 1937 asking for something special. It was because of this unusual request that Wian invented the first ever double-decker cheeseburger. The assembly for this edible architectural marvel goes as follows.
To start, a seeded bun is cut in half to create the bottom and top buns known as the “crown” and “heel,” respectively. Then, the top of another seeded bun is sliced off to create the middle piece of bread known as the “club.” From there, the heel and club are topped or “doped” with mayo. Shredded iceberg lettuce and an unmelted slice of American cheese are added to the heel before a two-ounce beef patty is placed on top of the cheese. The club is placed on top of the first patty which is then topped with another patty. A spoonful of Rite Spot’s red relish is added to the second patty before crowning the burger with the top bun.
If this style of sandwich sounds familiar, it should, because this is the burger that inspired the most popular fast food item on the planet, the Big Mac from McDonald’s.
(Fun fact: Before the invention of this burger, if customers asked for double meat on a burger, the cook would actually press two balls of beef into one large patty).
With its signature dish established, massive success and branding soon followed. The iconic burger was named the “Big Boy” after the nickname Wian gave to the restaurant’s first super fan, Richard Woodruff. A cartoonish version of Woodruff was drawn up by Bugs Bunny animator Ben Washam, and became the establishment’s mascot. In 1949, Wayne McAllister designed the mid-century modern Burbank location. This Riverside Drive car hop is famous for not only being the oldest operating Bob’s Big Boy in the nation but for hosting The Beatles during their visit to LA in 1965, and being featured in the 1995 crime thriller, “Heat.”
Bob’s Big Boy gained a lot of traction in the ’50s, leading to a massive expansion. Wian’s brothers, John, Louis and Fred Elias opened up 100 restaurants using the Big Boy branding between 1952 and 1964: Azar’s, Eat’n Park and Shoney’s Big Boy were but a few of the franchised locations. Another surprising expansion of the burger brand was into the fictional world of comic books. The Big Boy comics were initially written by Stan Lee and published by Timely Comics, more commonly known today as Marvel. The popular series continued until 1996, making it one of the longest-running comics in American history.
As the Big Boy rolled into the ’70s, however, its success began to decline. Wian sold the chain to Marriott in 1967, which was primarily a restaurant parent company at the time. By 1979, the Big Boy name had spread to over 1,000 locations across the country. The brand was eventually sold to the Elias brothers in 1987 after Marriott decided to franchise hotels instead of dining establishments. This decision unfortunately led to the massive downfall of the company as it would shrink to under 100 locations and declare bankruptcy before the end of the century.
At the time of writing, there are only four Bob’s Big Boy locations, all of which are in California. While it is sad to see this institution fade from the national food scene, it still has still made an important mark in LA. The Burbank location is recognized as a California Point of Historical Interest and hosts classic car shows every Friday night. The Big Boy also continues to live on in select grocery stores on the West Coast. In 2019, The Flavor of California company acquired the rights to manufacture and sell Bob’s famous dressings and sauces such as their bleu cheese, Thousand Island dressing and ranch.
Bob’s Big Boy is a melting pot of LA’s greatest culinary creations and a mainstay in this city’s culture. Whether someone wants to walk in the legendary steps of The Beatles, check out some classic cars or try the cheeseburger that started it all, Bob’s Big Boy is the place to get a taste of LA’s history.
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Featured image by GDMatthews – stock.adobe.com
