Persian Square: A tale of immigrant success and modern cultural exchange

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Walking down Westwood Boulevard, one may find that it’s impossible to miss the plethora of Persian businesses lined up and down the block. Storefronts are marked with signs in both English and Farsi — a symbol of the blending of American and Persian culture — and the smell of fresh kabobs permeates the air. Many Persian residents refer to the area by its moniker of “Tehrangeles,” a portmanteau of Iran’s capital, Tehran, and Los Angeles.

Los Angeles houses the largest community of Iranians outside Iran, but how did Westwood come to be so saturated with this ethnic group?

The Persian community’s strong ethnic presence in Westwood can be attributed to the Iranian Revolution of 1979, during which Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi was overthrown by Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, and the Islamic Republic was officially established in place of the ruling monarchy. The new harsh religious regime caused a mass exodus of Iranian citizens, many of whom decided to settle in Southern California. With sunny weather, job opportunities and traffic that rivals Tehran’s own, Los Angeles provided displaced Iranian citizens a chance to start anew. Many flocked to Westwood due to affordable housing and the small but growing Persian presence that acted as a support network for new immigrants.

As more Persians arrived and opened their own stores and businesses, Westwood became the backdrop for a success story; individuals fleeing the only home they ever knew were able to rebuild their lives from the ground up, and the diversity of the community is now enhanced by both Persians and non-Persians of all generations. This thriving district is one of the only places outside of Iran where you can find such an abundance of Persian culture; this can be seen in their bookstores, grocery shops, restaurants and bakeries.

The enclave was recognized in 2010 when Los Angeles City Councilmember Paul Koretz officially named the intersection of Westwood Boulevard and Wilkerson Avenue “Persian Square.” While the spot itself marks where the first Persian business in Los Angeles was opened, for many Iranians, the recognition also acknowledges the rich culture they’ve brought to Westwood.

Persian Square mimics the familiarity of old Iran, and the area proves to be equally impactful to immigrants as it is to students. For Ariel Dardashti, a fourth-year student double majoring in global studies and sociology, the Persian aspect of Westwood offers a cultural outlet that keeps him connected to his heritage, which was an important factor he considered when deciding where to attend college. Dardashti explained that attending a university by Persian Square has fundamentally changed his college experience for the better. Not only does he have access to unique programs like a Persian art class in Westwood, but there are more opportunities for him to connect with his roots on campus, such as through the Persian Community at Hillel, or PCH, and the Iranian Student Group.

“I can go to a Persian Shabbat and then a Persian dance party in the same night,” said Dardashti. “I don’t think there’s anywhere else I could do that.”

Third-year psychobiology student Ashley Javaherian agrees with Dardashti. Also a member of campus clubs and organizations like PCH, Javaherian feels she can instantly connect with other Persians over their shared ethnicity.

“(Going to school in a Persian area) definitely enhanced my college experience here and is also a really big reason why I chose UCLA when looking at colleges,” said Javaherian.

However, the implications of Persian Square are greater than just these social benefits. The diffusion and prevalence of Persian culture in Westwood contribute to greater understanding and acceptance, something the Persian community has not always been afforded. Fundamental aspects of Persian culture — aromatic food, thick brows and distinct noses — weren’t always welcomed by Western society.

“Being Persian wasn’t always cool,” said Dardashti, “but now it’s gone mainstream.”

Dardashti and Javaherian both feel that the exposure to their ethnic background makes other students more curious about their culture, wanting to learn and experience what being Persian is like. Javaherian explained that her non-Persian roommates often ask her about Persian holidays and traditions, and to her pleasant surprise, one suggested that they go to the Persian ice cream shop Saffron & Rose together. Dardashti had a similar encounter, feeling a sense of pride when he overheard non-Persian students in one of his lectures rave about the popular dessert spot.

Rhianna Carlsson, a third-year international student double majoring in Spanish and communication, speaks to this exposure. Carlsson grew up just outside of London, England and had few interactions with Persians since she was living in a predominantly white area. She explained that the United Kingdom has a handful of Indian and Middle Eastern immigrants but that she didn’t know any Persians directly.

“I can definitely say that I’ve met a lot more Persians being at UCLA,” said Carlsson.

Carlsson has explored the greater Westwood area and enjoyed the Persian cuisine, a recurring sentiment for Persians and non-Persians alike.

Ultimately, Persian Square has touched the lives of many, whether it’s acting as a familiar sanctuary for immigrants of the past and present, a network for students to stay culturally connected or a source of intrigue for newcomers. One thing is for certain: Westwood would not be the same without it.

A glimpse of Persian Square