3,781 restaurants in the world have a coveted Michelin star. 25 of those restaurants are in Los Angeles. And the only one under the category of “a moderate spend?:” Holbox.
When envisioning a Michelin star restaurant experience, something like this might spring to mind: after turning your car into the valet, you’re greeted by hosts in black tie and led to a dimly lit table while being handed a heavyweight paper menu with words such as a foie gras foam, or truffle bubble, or possibly an ingredient you need to sound out in your head before hesitantly telling the server. The only hint to the price is that there is no price listed.
Unsurprisingly, by definition, a Michelin star is awarded to consistent outstanding cooking. The dishes that are ripe with personality on a plate. It’s a common conception that these unique experiences are limited to only those who are willing to empty their wallets. Intrigued by the affordable pricing claims, BruinLife’s Caroline Gin, Amelia Su and Victoria Lu set out to review Holbox to see if, for college students, this highly acclaimed restaurant is worth the spend.
While there is parking adjacent, take precaution as the parking fare is rather high, nearing $16 for a two hour stay. Situated in a bustling food court, we were greeted with Holbox’s open kitchen concept featuring a 16-spot bar seating that allowed direct viewing of where the magic, or food-assembling process, happens. Live seafood from spiny lobsters and skittering shrimp were seen being newly delivered at a peripheral tank. Accouterments were prepped with finely diced red onion, thinly sliced avocado and various garnishes all at hand on the line. We came a strategic hour and a half early to beat the line (first-come-first-serve for the regular menu), yet to our surprise there were already two people waiting on a mundane Wednesday morning — a definite further testament to Holbox’s popularity.
Whether you want to try shared plates tapas-style or savor a solo meal, there are a plethora of options with prices ranging from a $45 per pound grilled lobster to a $6 Baja fish taco to merely $1 for classic chips and salsa. As we ate, we watched the chef and owner, Gilberto Cetina, running the kitchen and passionately chatting with customers around the bar about their experience. The amicable service is humble and only appears when our orders are being taken and dishes are laid out. While small bar space doesn’t seem like an issue at first, as plate after plate is showcased, it was a necessity to utilize the glass bar top to hold the incoming behemoth of a feast.
Ceviche de Atun ($26) and Ceviche Mixto ($20):
If there is one takeaway from Holbox’s ceviche, it is that they let the seafood shine. The Ceviche de Atun and Ceviche Mixto are acidic and fresh with a strong lime flavor, finely diced onions and perfect green slivers of avocado on the side. When paired with the crunchy tostadas, these bright dishes feel substantial with high-quality preparation. While the avocado puree and peanut-arbol chili oil, do differentiate the Ceviche de Atun even more than the Mixto, it’s the melt-in-your-mouth Baja Californian bluefin tuna that makes the seafood dish feel decadent. For a more delicate flavor, the Ceviche Mixto displays the clean and sweet wild Mexican shrimp, Yucatan octopus and white seabass. All three proteins combined provide for a distinct mix of textures from the meaty octopus, bouncy shrimp and a softer chew in the white seabass. While some might prefer the milder taste of the Ceviche Mixto, the quality of the ingredients’ freshness are of similar impressive caliber; therefore, it is ultimately up to the diner to decide which seafood items attune more to their preferences.
Taco de Pulpo en su Tinta ($7):
A dish that brought an instant consensus amongst the table was the Taco de Pulpo en su Tinta, which is utterly deserving of the high praise sung by diners. The juiciness of the braise complimenting each bite of the succulent octopus flesh that had no unappealing toughness atop a squid-ink sofrito base is sure to win the hearts of even those who are not normally octopus fans. It is important to nail the delicate balance of crispy exterior with a chewier interior and Holbox achieved exactly that. As the first bite of the taco line-up, it was simply an outstanding opener for the flavor feast that ensued.
Scallop Aguachile ($16):
The Scallop Aguachile emerged next. A true feast for the eyes as well as the palate, the vibrant green of the aguachile juxtaposed against the pale white circles of scallop was truly a sight to behold. Embellished with a rose of avocado in the center and garnished with daintily placed microgreens, the dish was served with packets of saltine crackers — a plain vessel solely used to transport the aguachile into the mouth. The dish showcased the fresh scallop and zesty tang of the lime-cilantro marinade, greeting the tongue with a nice sharp kick followed by a soothing creaminess from the avocado and scallop. Overall, this dish, a Holbox signature, lived up to its popularity as a table favorite.
Smoked Kanpachi Taco ($7):
The Smoked Kanpachi Taco was a welcomed accompaniment to the fresh seafood showcased by the previous dishes. A purple masa tortilla filled with a savory house smoked fish and queso chihuahua, this taco was finished with a salsa cruda, avocado and a peanut chili oil. All together, each component of the dish worked to create a well-rounded taco experience; the richness of the cheese complemented the smokiness of the fish, and the avocado and salsa crudo gave the taco the freshness it needed given the richness of the seafood. Garnished with a peanut chili oil not unlike a chili crisp one would find with Chinese cuisine, the oil added a bit of warm heat to the taco.
Smoked Kanpachi Tostada ($9):
The tostada base of the Smoked Kanpachi Tostada offered the perfect crunch in its delicate crispiness that diversified the softer textures of the seafood bits (kampachi fish, shrimp, scallop), making each scrumptious bite a flavorful delight to eat. This particular tostada was enjoyable in its rich combination of fruits de mer dressed with a spicier arbol-guajillo sauce, offering diners a smokier yet not overpowering option to the zestier ceviches inspired by traditional coastal Mexican-style smoked fish. Similar to other dishes, the creamed avocado drops offered a buttery balance to the spices, lime and fish bites while adding to the plating aesthetics. If desiring an alternative to the tacos, ordering the tostadas is undoubtedly the fail-proof way to go.
Camerones al Mojo ($28):
Drawn in by the mouth-watering presentation of this dish and a love for prawns, we decided to order the Camerones al Mojo from their Hot Food entree selection, which featured an arrangement of wood-roasted gulf shrimp generously doused in a rich garlic-butter-chile marinade and complimented with a side of fragrant cilantro rice and black beans. While this addition certainly elevated our food spread cinematography, it paled slightly in comparison to the other culinary masterpieces. The sweet freshness and remarkable tenderness of the shrimp made it seem almost as if raw, interlaced with strands of smoky accords. The garlic-butter character of the marinade made everything tend towards the oilier side, but fortunately served as a convenient dip for the paired grilled bread.
Despite the range of bold flavors and rich seafood preparations, Holbox manages to strike an impressive balance able to deliciously stimulate the tastebuds. Refreshing pairings that introduce savory variation in flavor profiles prevent the palate from tiring even as plate after plate arrives — a sure phenomenon to witness. By the end of the meal, we left Holbox thoroughly satisfied, stomachs brimming but absent of the uncomfortable heaviness that often follows a hefty dining experience. Instead, the meal left us with an eager itch to plan our next visit.
For college students curious about experiencing Michelin-starred cooking without the weighty price tag, Holbox and its unpresuming marketplace location unquestionably earns its place on Los Angeles’ must-try list. Just be sure to arrive well before opening if you want the best chance at securing one of the coveted counter seats. As the “black hole” translation of the restaurant’s Mayan name suggests, Holbox’s delicacies are sure to open up anyone’s appetite.
